Michelle and I just returned from a few days in George Town on Great Exuma in the Bahamas. Paradise is indeed changing but it is, nonetheless, still paradise. We arrived in time for the end of the annual cruising regatta. There were, by some estimates, more than 400 boats at anchor in the harbor.

Development is in full swing on Great Exuma. The good news for cruisers is that, so far, there hasn't been much of an impact on cruisers. George Town itself still retains the charm and small town feel - much of the development is occurring on other parts of the island. But with the development comes an increase in the number of tourists. As a result, in my opinion it is more important than ever for cruisers to keep in mind the guiding principle of the Seven Seas Cruising Association - that is to leave a clean wake.

I talked to several locals who were concerned about the growth and also about the wild abandon of the tourists - tourists who basically fly in, party hard and run roughshod over the place. The locals do still differentiate the cruisers from the fly-in tourists and that's a good thing. I think it's important to keep it that way. Bahamians are polite, friendly, very good natured yet somewhat reserved. It's important to keep in mind that it is their country and to treat them with respect. The Bahamas are not just a playground for rich Americans, Canadians and Europeans. And trust me, if you are on a boat in the Bahamas, you could very well be considered rich by many Bahamians - regardless of what you think of your financial status.

It is a place like no other - you feel a common bond with those who have, like you, made the journey to the end of the Exuma chain and you can also feel a relationship with the little town on the island. Exuma Market is still humming along as are the other businesses cruisers have come to know.

There are some changes to mention. The bridge over the inlet to Lake Victoria is scheduled to be replaced soon. When we were there it was blocked to vehicle traffic - but it will soon be coming down. When it does, there will have to be some changes made for cruisers that plan to summer in George Town. For a while, at least, dinghies won't be able to get into Lake Victoria to tie up at Exuma Market. Minns Water Sports will also be affected because they won't be able to get their boats out. I'm not sure how things will work but I suspect that it get worked out quickly. None of the businesses want to be cut off from the cruisers, after all. I would guess that all will be back to normal by the next cruising season in the fall. On the plus side, we were told that the water at the dinghy dock at Exuma Market is now RO - and it's still free.

It was great to see some old friends and meet new ones over the few days we were there. David and Eileen Quinn on Little Gidding are wonderful - and we were sorry to have missed one of her beach concerts by just a few days.

The harbor is huge, the water is beautiful beyond description, the cruisers tend to be the best bunch of people you could ever meet and the locals are warm and wonderful. Go, go now and enjoy paradise while it is still out there.

- Mitch Traphagen

Chelle on the oceanside beach - Stocking Island

Cruisers turn out for the Variety Show at the end of regatta week in George Town